Tuesday, June 14, 2011

New York, New York

Why does New York City keep pulling me? Yes, it’s a great city, but I’ve been to other great cities before and there was nowhere near the connection that I felt the first time I stepped off a curb and almost got run over by a taxi.

A friend came by the other night – we were in the process of getting dinner ready and there was way too much food – as soon as we heard that he hadn’t eaten yet it was stay for dinner…please! During dinner he mentioned that he and wife were planning a trip to New York shortly, and did we have any ideas for them? I felt an immediate pang that I wasn’t going too! This happens every time. It’s not that I begrudge anyone else having fun, it’s just that I want to go too.

The first time we went to New York, my husband took me for our anniversary. We had talked about going for a couple of years and it was a wonderful surprise. The year before I had been to New Jersey for a conference and a group there had planned a day trip into the City before they left. It was so very tempting, but I knew I would feel bad if I went without my husband, so I declined their invitation. It almost killed me. Instead, I sat in the airport at five o’clock in the morning waiting for my flight home and watched the sun rise over the city. It was so beautiful. As tired as I was, I was mesmerized.

Our first trip was in April, and the weather was surprisingly warm. We stayed at the Parker Meridian on W58th near the Park. The hotel was incredible with a view of Central Park and I couldn’t wait to get out there! We checked in on a Thursday afternoon and immediately went back out and started walking. As we strolled along a winding path through the 59th St. park entrance, I looked up at a man coming towards us and it was Hugh Downes from 20/20. I caught his eye and he smiled and said hello, beautiful day! I agreed and we went on our way. I looked at my husband…wasn’t that?... Yes, yes it was.

Until you actually walk in Central Park, you cannot appreciate the wonder of it. First of all the size, but also the beauty. Almost every turn brings into view some new little bridge, or pond, or garden.
When we left the park and headed towards Midtown, we were immediately swept up in the bustle of work day NY. No one strolls. It took only a couple of cross walks to learn that you step off the curb before the light actually changes in your favour, to be met with the sound of a dozen yellow cabs honking in unison! The energy was infectious. We walked for hours, first to Time Square, then crisscrossing down side streets so as not to miss a thing.

We did and saw so much on that short trip but one thing in particular stands out: On Sunday morning we went for our last walk in Central Park only to be caught in a major downpour. The sun hadn’t quite made it out that morning, so we were not only soaking wet, but it was cold too! Making our way back to Central Park West, we found ourselves in front of Tavern on the Green. I had seen this restaurant in any number of old black and white movies based in NY. We decided to try and just duck under the eaves to get out of the rain. We were far too wet and bedraggled to go in! After a minute or so the hostess noticed us and motioned us in. I said we were too wet to come in – we were literally dripping – but she said nonsense! She took us upstairs to the loft lounge and sat us by a roaring fire then brought us drinks. It was the perfect ending to our first trip!

We’ve been three times since, with friends, and the last time with our daughter and her best friend. Each trip has offered some memorable moments. One night on our second trip with our friends, we found ourselves alone for dinner as they had got caught up doing something earlier in the afternoon.
It was such a beautiful night that we decided to walk back to our hotel and took a meandering path through the theatre district. Turning a corner, we saw a large crowd across the street in front of a theatre, clearly waiting on someone to come out. We stayed on our side of the street – there was really nowhere to stand in front of the theatre – and decided to wait and see who came out. Suddenly the crowd began to buzz and someone emerged from the theatre. People were very excited and asking for pictures and autographs, but I have to confess, neither one of us had any idea who the woman was! We were just about to continue walking when the buzz built up again. Marisa Tomei emerged, and she too signed autographs and posed for pictures. We both decided that was kind of cool, but we were also chuckling a little at how excited people were getting about seeing a “celebrity”. We were just starting to move away when someone else exited the theatre and I looked over to see Al Pacino! For no apparent reason my feet started to take me across the street, as if of their own volition! I vaguely heard my husband say something, but I kept walking. A big black SUV pulled up in front of the theatre and Al Pacino climbed up on the running board to get in, but stopped to wave to the crowd. Suddenly I felt hot breath on my neck and had the odd notion that a horse was standing there! This was confirmed seconds later when a very deep voice belonging to the Policeman sitting on the horse, yelled at me to get out of the road. I didn’t move. Just then, Al Pacino looked in my direction, our eyes met, and he smiled at me. The policeman yelled again, louder this time and I remember thinking to myself, you are going to have to pick me up and physically move me if you want me to go…. Then Al got in the SUV and our moment was over.

As my husband and I walked on our way he said, “You know you just became one of the people you were making fun of?” I just kept walking with a goofy grin on my face.

On another trip, we were walking down 38th Street one evening after dinner. We had no particular plans and were just enjoying the night. Passing a little hole in the wall club, we were waved in by the doorman. Having nothing else to do at the moment, we went in for a drink. As our drinks came, some instruments were being set up at the front of the club. Soon, three young men took the stage. The owner wanted to introduce them, but they didn’t have a name yet. They had just arrived from Israel, so they suggested “three boys from Israel” for a name. And then they played. It was amazing. The kind of fast, old fashioned jazz that I associate with smoky bars in Frank Sinatra movies. We had only planned to stay for one drink, but there was no way we were leaving. After their first set, a young woman in the audience was brought up to meet them by the club’s owner, and they decided she should sing a few songs with them. It was a couple of quick seconds of “ok, we’ll play this, and you do that” and then they began. It was as if they had been playing together for years, and her voice was perfect for the music. When it was over, much too soon, no one wanted to leave. I looked at my watch and couldn’t believe how many hours had passed since we sat down!

There are a lot of touristy things to do in New York City. The things that had captivated my imagination before I even got to see them: The Empire State Building, The Brooklyn Bridge, and Rockefeller Centre. Things I had for years seen in romantic movies; movies where the city is as much a character as any of the actors. “You’ve Got Mail” comes to mind. “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. Any number of Doris Day and Cary Grant films. It was definitely this romantic New York that first made me want to go. The Empire State building observation deck at night is incredible. For a nominal fee you can get headphones and a recording of “a New York cabbie” that tells you what you are seeing as you walk around. The Circle Line Boat Tour of the Island is definitely worthwhile – not only for the views, but the Guide also gives out a lot of history along the way, as well as some fun facts about which movie stars live in which buildings. The only caveat with this is that nice weather is definitely preferable! You want to be able to sit outside!
We also walked across the Brooklyn Bridge! If you want photo ops of the city, you can’t do better than this, and the Bridge itself is pretty amazing too to see up close. On one unforgettable night we got very dressed up with friends and saw La Boheme at the Metropolitan Opera House. Going there, and seeing this particular opera had been on my “bucket list” for a long time, and I can’t even begin to tell you how excited I was. I was not disappointed. When we were heading back to our hotel, it had begun to get cold out so we stopped at a little bar for Hot Toddy’s. The perfect ending!

There are innumerable museums, including the Museum of Natural History; Art Galleries, Time Square, Broadway, and of course the shopping. I personally am not much of a shopper, but you still have to check out some of them! And if you are into shopping…well….you may never come home again. There is everything from Gucci and Armani on 5th Avenue, to Designer Bargain Basements, and everything in between. And of course, there is Tiffany’s. Tiffany’s could quite easily become my spiritual home. I have explored every floor. Although we didn’t think of it when we were there, my daughter has decided that the next time we go, we will have “breakfast” at Tiffany’s as a sort of homage to Audrey Hepburn.

I think one of the things that make the city so great, is that everything is so accessible. You cannot get lost, as it is laid out on a grid. You can walk anywhere, and if you are in a hurry, there are cabs, buses, and the subway. The last couple of trips we took the subway everywhere if we weren’t walking. And despite what you may think, I have never once felt unsafe while there. And the restaurants! Most have the menu posted outside so you can see it (and the prices) before you go in. There are some pretty pricey places to eat but there are also a lot of very nice, reasonably priced ones too. If you want a good meal, a lot of restaurants in Little Italy offer al fresco dining, with a fixed price menu of three courses. Very reasonable, and filling too! Virgil’s BBQ near Times Square has…well….BBQ! It is delicious, but be advised, if you order one of their bigger appetizers, you probably won’t be able to eat your entrée.
For lunch (or dinner for that matter) the Amish Market on 9th Avenue has the best sandwiches you could imagine – whole turkeys and hams and roasts in the deli case that they slice in front of you for sandwiches bigger than my head – and any number of sides to go with it. They also have a great grilled veggie and goat cheese Panini. You can eat in, but why not pack it up and take it to Central Park for a picnic!

I am already planning my next trip in my head as I write this. I can’t wait!

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